Jerash
جرش
A visit to the spectacular Roman ruins of Jerash
immediately transports the visitor two thousand years back in
time. The city's many splendid monumental remains, still retain
th
e atmosphere of the once thriving metropolis, famous in its own
time for magnificent temples, amphitheaters, and plazas. From the
buildings and the many other well preserved structures, it is easy
to imagine the city in its heyday: Down the colonnaded streets,
chariots would have trundled, their wheels etching ever deeper the
already well-worn grooves. The little shops that line the streets
would have stocked exotic goods brought in from Persia, and Egypt,
and the bustle of the city would have been punctuated by other
sounds; the gentle splash of water flowing from the fountains of
the Nymphaeum; The tapping of builders and masons at work; and the
occasional roar of a satisfied crowd being entertained in the
amphitheaters. Although now in ruins the spirit of Roman Gerasa
lives on.
Finds at Jerash indicate that this fertile site
has been inhabited since Neolithic times.
In the days of Alexander the Great (332 BC),
the city grew increasingly prosperous and important until, in 63
BC, the Roman emperor Pompey conquered the region. The ancient
Arabic name of Garshu was changed to Gerasa, and Jerash became
part of the Roman Empire and, soon after, a member of the
Decapolis.
Through agriculture, iron-ore mining at Ajloun
(just to the north), and trade with the Nabataeans, Gerasa rapidly
became one of the wealthiest cities in the Roman Empire. A new
city plan, befitting Gerasa's status, was drawn up in the 1st
Century. This design is typical of Roman provincial cities, and
features a colonnaded main street intersected by two side streets,
down which one can still walk today.
Historians disagree over the exact definition
of the Decapolis, but it is thought to have been a loose but
dynamic league of ten Graeco-Roman cities, including Philadelphia
(present-day Amman), Damascus, Pella, Abila and Gadara (now Um
Qais), bound by powerful commercial, political and cultural
interests.
From their base in Petra, the Nabateans had
exercised control over the lucrative trade in Indian silks, spices
and incense, African ivory and animal hides. They levied heavy
duties on these precious goods, and collected money to protect the
caravans from bandits. In 106 AD, the emperor Trajan annexed the
wealthy Nabataean kingdom, forming the Province of Arabia.
Now with authority over these additional
riches, Gerasa commenced another burst of construction activity -
many of the recently erected buildings were replaced with even
grander structures embellished with marble and granite.
Yet another boost in Gerasa's stature come with
the visit of emperor Hadrian in 129 AD. To honor its guest, the
city raised an imposing triumphal arch at the south of the city,
and lavish celebrations were held. The city's prosperity continued
unabated until, by the beginning of the 3rd Century, Gerasa had
acquired the status of a Roman Colony.
In its heyday, Gerasa is thought to have had a
population of as many as 20,000 people. They mostly spoke Greek,
but used Latin for commercial and legal transactions. The
buildings which can be viewed today made up the administrative,
civic and commercial center of the city. The citizens of Gerasa
lived to the east, and their habitations have not been excavated.
Gerasa's prosperity could not protect it from
change. As the 3rd Century progressed, and shipping replaced the
overland caravans as the main route for commerce, the city began
to lose control of its lucrative trade and tariffs. The trend was
accelerated by continuing uprisings against the Romans -such as
the destruction of the city of Palmyra in 273 AD- which made the
overland route increasingly hazardous. More construction was
undertaken during the reign of emperor Diocletian, around 300 AD,
but this brief burst of activity was only a temporary respite in
the city's decline.
By the middle of the 5th Century, Gerasa had
become a relatively insignificant city. However, as Christianity
become the dominant religion following the conversion of emperor
Constantine (early 4th Century), this period saw the construction
of numerous churches in Jerash.
Most of these were built in the ruins area -
indeed, many churches were constructed of stones taken from pagan
temples - and the remains of several can be seen today. The
church-building boom continued until the Persian invasion in 614
AD, when Damascus and Jerusalem were also captured. This was
closely followed by the Muslim conquest in 636 AD, as a result of
which the importance of Gerasa was further weakened.
A series of earthquakes in 749 AD did serious
damage the city and hastened its decline. By this date, the
population was less than 4,000; and although the site was occupied
in the Early Islamic period until around 800 AD, Gerasa become
nothing more than a small rural settlement. Its Roman name was
transformed into a new Arabic one - Jerash - derived from the
ancient Semitic name. And so - despite a brief occupation by a
Crusader garrison in the 12th Century - the city became lost to
Western history.
The rediscovery of Jerash come about in 1806,
when Ulrich Jasper Seetzen, a German traveler, come across and
recognized a small section of the ruins. Buried in sand - which
accounts for its remarkable state of preservation - the city has
been gradually revealed through a series of excavations which
commenced in 1925. Extensive programs of conservation and
restoration continue to this day.
Jerash Festival:
Visitors to Jerash in July are in for special
treat, when the Jerash Festival transforms the ancient city into
one of the world's liveliest -and most spectacular- cultural
event.
Inaugurated in 1981 by Queen Noor, the
festivals patron, the Jerash festival is an exciting celebration
of both Jordanian and international culture. Here are folklore
dances by local groups and troupes from as far afield as Spain,
Lebanon and Germany. The ancient amphitheater comes to life once
more, as 4,000 spectators enjoy world-class ballet, the astounding
acrobatics of the Chinese gymnasts, or hysterical comedy from an
Arabic satirical team. And the Roman architects' astonishing
acoustics give every spectator a front-row seat for Italian opera,
Shakespeare from a British theater group, or heart-wrenching
singing by the Arab world's most beloved performer, Fairouz.
Add to thiheady mixture poetry recitals,
competitions, and astounding displays of traditional
handicrafts-Bedouin rugs, jewelry, embroidery, glass and
ceramics-and you have a recipe for a fascinating event. and all
the while, brilliant floodlights dramatically showcase the
ruins... making you almost believe you can see Roman figures in
flowing toga and open sandals flitting from column to column,
enjoying the spectacle as much as the 20th-Century audience.
The Jerash Festival is a must-see if you're in
Jordan at the time, and well worth visiting the country for
specially.
