Madaba
Just 20 minutes south
of Amman, on the Kings Highway, is the mosaic-filled city of Madaba.
Crowned by a small church, this historic town lies in the middle of
Jordan's most fertile land. In many respects Madaba is a typical
East Bank town which differs in one major aspect: underneath almost
every house lies a fine Byzantine mosaic. Many of these mosaics have
been excavated and are on display in the town's museum, but it is
estimated that many more lie hidden waiting to be discovered. The
finest mos
aic
found to date is still in its original place on the floor of the
Greek Orthodox Church of St. George. This huge well -preserved
work of art comprises a map of the entire region from Jordan and Palestine in
the north, to Egypt in the south. Many towns and cities are depicted in picture
form, complete with walls and pitched re-roofed houses, while in the Nile huge
fish swim.
Situated 30 km (19 miles) south-west from Amman. Madaba's
history goes back 3,000 BC. The earliest traces of human civilization so far
discovered come from the highest point in the town (the Acropolis) At the
southern entrance to the city, nestled next to the road which wend its way down
towards Kerak, is tChurch of the Apostles. The ruins were discovered at the
beginning of this century. They date to 578 AD, and are adorned with the
beautiful mosaic floors, signed by a craftsman named Salamaniors.
Ten years after the main repopulation of Madaba in 1890, the
greatest, and most significant, of all the city's treasures was unearthed: the
Mosaic Map of Palestine. The find was hailed as the oldest map in existence, and
is located on the floor of the Greek Orthodox Church of St. George at Madaba.
Its central location makes it a good place to take a break from the bustling
souq. Externally the church belies its ornate, treasure-filled interior. The
eastern section of the church, near the altar, is where surviving portions of
the map may be seen. It measures 88 m2 (927 square feet), and extends between
what are now the central and south naves. The map represents the Holy Land and
surrounding regions.
Leaving St.
George's Church with its heavily adorned walls, lines of chandeliers, and famed
map is no easy task. Except for a few reminders of our century, life has changed
little in this biblical town. Carpets, saddle bags and tapestries are crafted
from dazzling hues of wool. Weavers hard at their looms in the shades of their
shops, are happy to sit and chat, over a glass of hot sweet tea.
If you continue a few blocks south of the Tourist Office to
the Museum, you pass a few small construction sites where mosaic floors have
been unearthed. Madaba is an archaeologist's paradise.
Situated 10 kilometers
west of Madaba, overlooking the Jordan Valley is Mount Nebo, one of
the alleged sites of the tomb of Moses. The summit of this lonely
wind swept site command spectacular vi
ews
over the Dead Sea to the West Bank and Jerusalem and, you can see
the springs where Moses smote the ground to bring forth water.
Standing amongst extensive ruins is a small church which protects
some fine and beautifully preserved sixth century mosaics which are
still being uncovered.
Less
than 10 km (6 miles) west of Madaba, towards the River Jordan, Mount Nebo soars
above the great eastern plateau that stretches out to the West Bank and beyond.
Nebo rises to about 800 meters (2,625 feet) at its apex and has, as its two most
prominent crests, Syagha and Al Mukhayyet.
At Syagha, above the windswept plains, a chapel was erected
in honor of the prophet Moses which drew many pilgrims. It was in the last two
decades of the 19th Century that two crucial accounts came to light which
confirmed Nebo to be the resting place of Moses.
The first was a 4th century narrative by a traveler named
Egeria, who recorded that the clergy there maintained the chapel had been sited
where Moses had died, reputedly buried by angels.
The second of accounts was given by Peter the Iberian, Bishop
of Gaza, who wrote the chapel's divine pedigree. The Monastery at Syagha was
constructed partly on the foundations of the early chapel. It is said to have
been erected by monks from Egypt to commemorate the last moment of Moses' life.
Some of the most magnificent Byzantine mosaic work in Jordan is housed within
its walls.
Surrounding the monastery are the low-lying ruins of other
ancient buildings. These, and the roof of the monastery probably fell victim to
the great earthquake in 749 AD. At the east end of the monastery's outer wall
stands what is thought to be a gigantic millstone, though some locals maintain
its purpose was more sinister.
As you arrive at the monastery up the hill path, a new rest
house is on the left. It offers snacks, a wonderful vantage point and provides a
cool place to shelter from the biting winds that howl across the mountain's
face. The little rest house has its own mosaic proudly displayed on one wall.
Inside the monastery on the right is a small collection of souvenirs and
booklets.
Higher still above Syagha, just east of Mount Nebo is a place
now called Khirbet Al-Mukhayyad. Tombs in the vicinity which have been excavated
verify that the settlement has been populated since at least 2000 BC.
