Hidden behind an almost impenetrable barrier of rugged
mountains, the rock-carved city of Petra is full of mysterious
charm. The approach through the cool gloom of the Siq, a long
narrow gorge whose steep ly rising sides all but obliterate the
sun, provides a dramatic contrast with the magic to come. Suddenly
the gorge opens into a natural square dominated by Petra's most
famous monument, the Khasneh, whose intricately carved facade
glows in the dazzling sun. More facades beckon the visitor on
until the ancient city gradually unfolds, one monument leading to
the next for kilometer after kilometer. The sheer size of the city
and the quality of beautifully carved facades is staggering and
leads one to reflect on the creativity and industry of the
Nabateans who made Petra their capital more than 2,000 years ago.
Petra is an enchanting place that captivates
and excites the senses. Its overwhelming size, rich textures and
stunning surroundings create an ambiance almost impossible to
describe.
Descending through Wadi Mousa, as you begin to drop into the
valley you will notice the change in the geology of the landscape.
Gradually the rocks and hillsides all around, and especially to
the west, take on strange and distinctive formations, often
showing hints of reds, mauves, yellows, blues and black. The rock
city of Petra sits in the middle of this geological freak of
nature, over 200 sq Km in area. Earthquakes, watercourses, wind,
rain and time have created out of the soft natural sandstone, a
landscape of fantasy where dramatic Puffy rock formations suddenly
give way to abrupt gorges, narrow defiles and deep fissures.
In some ways even more remarkable than the
natural phenomenon is the man-made contribution. From their
capital at Petra the Nabateans had established an elaborate
network of caravan routes which brought spices, incense, myrrh,
gold, silver and precious stones from India and Arabia, to be
traded onto the west. From the wealth they acquired, they adorned
their city with palaces, temples, and arches. Many that were
free-standing have largely disappeared but many were carved into
the rock i.e. the treasury, the monumental tombs, the high place
of sacrifice. These still remain today in a condition of
perfection so staggering that you feel you must have entered a
time wrap.
As you set off from the City's entrance gate,
at this stage the valley is quite wide and open. This section is
the approach to the narrow gorge and is know as Bab Es-Siq,
gateway of the siq. The first monuments you pass are the curious
Djinn Blocks, a cluster of three free standing rock cubes just to
the right of the track.
Continuing along the path you come to the
Obelisk Tomb, carved out of the cliff. At one point the passageway
goes from a wide breach to a dark chasm not more than a few feet
across. Suddenly in the space of a few footsteps, you get your
first glimpse of Petra's most fabled achievement, El-Khazneh (the
Treasury), which looms up in the brilliant sunshine, carved from
the rock, defiled by man.
At the outer siq's widest point a gully runs
abruptly off to the south. The path takes you to the high place:
an ancient Nabatean sacrificial site with an Altar cut from the
rock. For those who can stand the strenuous climb, the sweeping
view of Petra is well worthwhile.
Past the altar the track continues leading to
the garden Tridinium (the garden temple complex). There are two
free-standing colonnades, in front of which are a remnants of a
shrine. Continuing on, one passes dozens of wall niches, before
arriving at the Roman Soldier's Tomb, and a further Triclinium.
Petra has dozens of sacred sites. On a
windswept ridge high above the city, the Nabatean people extolled
their gods at the High Place known as El-Madbah in Arabic.
In an area known as the street of facades, many
classical Nabatean ruins can be seen.
The Outer siq makes a sudden turn northwards
and leads to the Roman Theatre which was built in typical Roman
style.
The substantial building Qasr El Bint Faroun
(Palace of the Pharoa's daughter'), demonstrates that the
Nabateans were capable of creating free-standing building.
Petra's second most spectacular construction
after the treasury is El-Deir (The Monastery). For a feeling of
Petra's immensity and the sheer power of the rock, the trip is
essential.
Across from the Qasr Bint a jumbo of steps lead
up to Petra's Museum. The room housing the small collection is the
most monumental exhibit of all.
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